Friday, 3 July 2015

JULY 2015 : SPAIN : El Camino del Norte : Day 4 : Marquina-Xemein - Gernika (25.6 kms - 9 hours)

Distance walked so far : 96 kms
Distance to Santiago de Compostela : 716 kms

    
       

      Mark and l left the Augusto albergue about 5.30am to minimise walking in the heat of the day. It 
      was a sensible idea but we had no idea it would be such a long day. Fortunately, the gradients
      of the climbs were nothing of the knee- crunching nature of yesterday.


   A note of comforting graffiti as we leave through a  Marquina underpass.


      Full moon over the farmyards.

                          
                                           
          
                                              A creative Basque stable.

      

       We walked along the river but it wasn't long until we had crossed into another valley.


   More towns on the route which were convenient for regular refreshments.


   A special moment this morning when the path took us through the medieval monastery, 
   Monasteries de Zenarruza. It has a 14th century Gothic church and courtyard. As we were
   Investigating we heard singing and Mark suggested we go in. The Cistercian monks were fully robed
   In red, so it must be a saint's day. Accompanied by the organ, the sung service was very peaceful -    and I realised for Mark, this wasn't a religious experience, as I assumed. He wasn't praying - he was going to sleep. This was just an excuse to have a bit of a rest, before I could push him back on the trail.
   

Some slippery slopes with moist mud and damp stones caused some delays as we carefully 
navigated our way down.


   Mark found access to a river at about 1pm and soaked his feet, and cooled down.


           Lots of friendly pelegrinos on the road. Not much shade in this section.


   Mark found some respite on a new pathway into Gernika. Fortunately the locals have eliminated
   one ascent and corresponding descent due to pine tree clearance.



   It was 39o as we walked into Gernika. A modern city, as a result of the devastation wreaked by Franco in the Spanish Civil War in 1937. Few historic buildings remain.
The main albergue is only open in August so we've opted for a one star hotel (50 euros),
recommended in the guide book, Hotel Bolina - bar, restaurant and clean rooms, ours is unfortunately on the 4th floor - our luck, no lift!



The magnificent entrance to the Church of Santa Maria, one of the few buildings not destroyed 
during th Spanish Civil War.


Just along from the church is a replica of Picasso's Gernika, in response to the horrors inflicted on the city.


   Washing done in our scrubber bag. A quick and effective way to wash all our clothes.
   Google it to see how it works.

 
  My feet see in great shape, despite the daily hammering. I'm wearing toed liner socks. I'm 
  finding they are protecting my toes very effectively.


While we were in the Tourist Office we found out about the semi-final Jai Alaii game on tonight, so we bought some tickets, as it is close to where we are staying. Hope we can stay awake.

 

It's a game played with a team of 2 players. They use a scoop to throw and catch a small hard 
plastic ball against the front and back walls of the court. Great atmosphere with the crowd appreciating the remarkable dexterity of the players. Another Basque treat.

10.45pm and it's still 24o.


M&M

Thursday, 2 July 2015

JULY 2015 : SPAIN : El Camino del Norte : Day 3 : Deba - Marquina -Xemein (23.5 kms - 8 hours)

Distance walked so far :  70 kms
Distance to Santiago de Compostela : 740 kms


Spain is suffering a heatwave and we seem to be getting waves of it. Fortunately, today, although it was humid and we didn't have to suffer searing temperatures forecast elsewhere.

We left Deba at 8am after breakfast at a bar across from the albergue. It was an extremely well run hostel and although not providing a kitchen, pelegrinos could access bars and supermarkets easily.



                                        Deba was a former whaling centre. 


       Now pleasure craft abound. We set off over the bridge and another steep ascent up as 
       we move further west.



         Hydrangeas used in public and private gardens.


     Some information along the way about Basque culture. Here is a sporting competition
     dragging heavy blocks of stone.


    The size of the stone blocks used.

 
      Gorgeous pastoral scenes


Only one opportunity for food along the way in Olatz. It was a well-run taverna with excellent snacks and drinks. We were chatting with a Dutchman, who walked this route with his daughter several years ago ('it was hard') and now was driving his wife around the area, showing her the memorable sections.


           A very happy Frenchman taking a break from walking in the heat of the day.


Lots of steep ascents.....


      Questionable paths....


    And knee-wrenching descents....


Walking into Marquina- Xemenin, we walked by the hexagonal Sanctuary of San Miguel de Arretxinaga, founded in the 11th century around three Megalithic stones.


   Marquina-Xemein is a working class town with a big heart. Descending into the valley through dense pine forests, which must employ some workers, we saw a huge stone quarry, which must provide the town with the most employment.
We are staying at Augusto, a private albergue with very friendly hosts.   Washing,drying of our clothes breakfast included .. 15 euros.




            Pinxtos at a local bar....while we wait for restaurants to open...Spanish time....



     Fabulous, and totally unexpected, a delicious pilgrim meal at a local restaurant. A three course   
     menu for 10 euros, which has been the standard price along the route.

     A very taxing day but according to our Irish friends the most challenging day, which augurs well
     for the rest of the trip. The secret is early starts to cover greater distances in the cooler parts of 
     the. Our friends, Julie and Bob, have decided to bus it to Bilbao from here to escape the heat and 
     let their feet recover.

M&M
2/7/15

Wednesday, 1 July 2015

JULY 2015 : SPAIN : El Camino del Norte : Day 2 : Zarautz - Deba


Distance travelled : 47 kms
Distance to Santiago de Compostela : 764 kms



I woke this morning, after a very sound sleep, with a few battle sores from our first day of walking. I have 4 stigmata ( well, it is a pilgrimage) on my shoulders and hips from my pack. Solution immediately found with my pack re-strapped. Feeling a bit like Reece Witherspoon in the movie, Wild. 
We left at 6, after having our breakfast purchased at a local supermarket last night. Sensible decision as we did not find anything open for a few hours after we set out.


Zaraurtz at dawn.


Our first major climb of the day. Up and up and up and up.



Views to Zumaya. A port town with an impressive wharf. But we didn't reach there for a few hours - after some strenuous ascents and descents.




Breathtaking countryside.


Humid conditions for walking - 26o. Worries with blisters for some and heatstroke for others.


A welcome respite at Zumaya. Juice, coffee and pastries and an interesting view.


Basque Country - and so proud to display their unique culture.


Still climbing but with views of the ocean - and benefiting from the sea breeze.


We stopped for lunch in Itziar. Our Lady of Itziar, in the local church of Santa Maria, which dates back to the thirteenth century. She was a focus of pilgrimage for seafarers along the Basque Coast for centuries.


Some weary bodies rest after an extremely strenuous morning.


A bit of graffiti along the way. Some kindred spirits feeling the demands of the terrain.

                                        

Quite a descent to the town of Deba so there are two lifts which transport you down to the city centre.
Our last visit to the coast for a few days.

                                      

Two attractive pilgrims waiting for the Tourist Office and albergue to open.


An exquisite Maria and child in the church in the main square in Deba.


The albergue, full tonight, is part of the railway station. It will be interesting how well we sleep tonight.


Good, clean facilities with restaurants/ bars (with wifi) and supermarkets nearby.


One of the views from the albergue.


Drinks and dinner in a local square with families out enjoying the balmy weather and having family celebrations.

A day of struggles with blisters (not me!) and the heat but we are all positive that we will settle into a trouble- free routine relatively soon.

Buen Camino!

M&M