OCTOBER 2014 : VIETNAM : Day 8 : Hoi An to Hue

                                      

Very hot and sweaty today - not to mention 'hair-frizzing' - with afternoon downpour just as drove into Hue.

View from breakfast this morning.

      

Mr Sam collected us early and we drove to Danang - 30 minute drive. First the Marble Museum or factory to demonstrate the white marble quarried in this area.

       

There were several quarried mountains in the area but one, Marble Mountain, was maintained by the Cham dynasty as a sacred reserve for the king because of the series of caves.

     

Quite a bit of climbing. We were glad it was early in the day as it was extremely steamy and hot.

      

There were several caves and paths. This gate led into the main cave.

                                       

The main cave with a Buddha which was carved in the nineteenth century. This cave was used as a bomb shelter by the locals during the Vietnam War but a bomb was exploded through the hole in the roof. Fortunately most of the cave remained in tact.

       

The royal compound, now used as a Buddhist retreat centre.

       

We drove into the modern city of Danang, totally rebuilt since the ravages of the Vietnam War. This is the Dragon Bridge, which is one of the many bridges that spans the river.

      

A visit to the Cham Museum in Danang, set up by French archeologists in the early twentieth century.

Many if these artefacts were rescued from sites like My Son, where we visited yesterday.

A highly decorated Garuda, a Hindu sacred bird.

                                     

Women or goddesses playing polo.

          

Then we headed north up the Hai Van Pass. At the mountain pass, amidst food and souvenir stalls, you could see bunkers, built by the French in their war in the '50s and the Americans in the '60s.

       

Our quick stop for a set lunch at local restaurant before we began exploring the lively, modern city of Hue.

                                    

Then off to the Citadel. The Nguyen Dynasty built this huge imperial enclosure, within ten kilometres of walls and ramparts from 1804-1833. It has several sections, some in tact but some under renovation having been destroyed by the French in the 1950s. It is a truly remarkable site and in its day must have looked magnificent.

Entering through one of the many gates.

       

The imperial palace and entry to the Imperial enclosure.

The imperial enclosure - due to be restored after being extensively burnt during the French War.

Fabulous gates and gardens

Covered walkways to much of the site

                                          

Renovation to the library

         

The imperial theatre in red and gold

            

We are staying at the Moonlight Hotel. 11th floor. Right in the tourist district near the river.

        

Our travel company had a surprise for us tonight. A dinner as Emperor and Empress with court music.

       

M&M

5/10/2014

OCTOBER 2014 : VIETNAM : Day 7 : Hoi An

                                        

Weather : hot and sweaty, 32o

This morning we were met by our guide, Mr Sam, at 8.30 to take us to the holy land of the Hindu Cham people. He is very enthusiastic and experienced, having been a guide since 1991. The only problem is that we can't understand a word he is saying. Mark likens him to Fraank in Father of the Bride. The bad news is that we have him for 3 days!

Early morning view of the river from our room at the hotel resort.

It was an hour drive to the My Son Heritage site. The countryside was drier than in the south and there were lots of duck farms.

The Cham people were originally Indians who were traders in the first century and settled in the area. From the 7th century the Cham kings built mausoleums for themselves. The site was dedicated to Lord Siva. After being excavated by archeologists in the late nineteenth century, it was recognised as a significant site, particularly its traditional Indian clay brick construction and the sophisticated sandstone carvings. Unfortunately, this site was a target in the American/ Vietnam war and much of the site has been destroyed or compromised. With international aid and expertise some of the buildings has been restored.

                                

                               

Recovered statues of the sacred cow, Nandi, and a dancing Shiva.

       

                                     

An Italian archaeological team has begun to renovate this mausoleum.

        

Bomb craters throughout the site.

                                       

A welcome swim on our return.

        

Back into town to collect my orders. Siesta time as so hot.

      

     

I didn't heed the warnings from guidebooks and the hotel, but I'm delighted with my purchases and the price. That's my skirt.

                                      

Free street food and cultural show at the hotel.

        

        

Dinner at Mango Mango - 5 spice duck for me and marinated pork for Mark.

        

Surprise on our return to the room.

       

M&M

4/10/2014

OCTOBER 2014 : VIETNAM : Day 6 : Ho Chi Minh City to Hoi An

                                      

A final morning in Saigon, including coffee and a walk. We met Shane and Kristin at an upmarket cafe called Brewing and Roasting.

Walking home we were befriended by hawker selling coconut milk. He encouraged Mark to try to carry his load ... and me to buy a drink...both achieved.

                                          

Our flight to Danang, a remarkably modern-looking town, took an hour and then a 30 minute drive to the old city of Hoi An, protected and untouched by either side in the 'American' War. Unfortunately, we are staying at the Vinh Hung Emerald Hotel on the river, across from the old town. Lovely pool and grounds, though. We could be in Australia there are so many (grey nomad) Aussie tourists.

        

The township is an absolute treasure - full of historic buildings and a picturesque waterfront. It is a Unesco World Heritage site.

First sight was the Japanese Covered Bridge, built in the 1590s by the resident Japanese community.

      

      

Various boats available for hire.

        

A gorgeous town to walk around.

        

Large food markets

         

Lanterns on sale in preparation for the Full Moon Festival on Tuesday night.

        

   

Tailors, leather goods,jewellery, souvenirs and clothing outlets. Each historic building has had a makeover as 21st century retail.

Lots of tourists but local family groups out as well sharing a meal.

We had an interesting meal at the White Marble, owned by an Australian, in a scenic location down by the river.

M&M

3/10/2014