DAY 4 : SPAIN : ZUBIRI to PAMPLONA - 21 kms - 6 hours

 

Distance walked so far : 824.2 kms

Weather : cloudy, intermittent showers - 26o

Our albergue (hostel) were up at about 6.30 - wake up call via the local church bell - and the local bar and alimentarie were ready for business at 7. We had freshly squeezed orange juice (zumo), pastries (postre) and cafe con leche (white coffee) - 3 euros. We were also able to get cheese and ham bocadillos (similar to a baguette) to take on our travels.



Small towns along the way - still in Basque colours.
 

 It was an uneventful walk - many of the paths have been paved since we walked this section in 2009 and an enterprising couple have opened a very 'cool' bar/ cafe along the route in a little village, providing fruit salads, pizza etc. for ravenous walkers.

Small cafe in Akerreta begun last year for walkers - good food,
music. Lucky for us, they were still open as they
close for the season next week.

 

Walking towards Pamplona, with the cathedral in
sight.

 

 It rained a little but not for long and we arrived in Pamplona after lunch. We've been able to organise our Spanish simcard and Mark has forwarded some of his luggage to Poste Restante in Santiago, which will make the going easier for him.

We are staying at a small albergue (hostel) on the River Arga in Pamplona. We are in a 4 bed-room. We are paying 8 euros each with light breakfast. This albergue is run by volunteers from a German confraternity. We have wifi, as we have had for the last 3 nights.

Our albergue, Casa Paderborn by the Arga River, Pamplona.

 

 

Pamplona  was founded by the Roman general, Pompey, on the Basque village of Iruna (still known as Iruna by Basque people) and was the original city in what became the Navarre region. It developed further because of the flow of pilgrims from the north, walking towards Santiago.

Town Hall, Pamplona.
There were originally 3 towns and this
building was constructed at the intersection
of them all to unify as one city in 1423.
It has an 18th century facade.

 

Residential streets in Pamplona.

Pamplona - home of San Fermin - the running of the bulls

 

Pintxos for dinner

 

 

Hams hanging in a local tapas/ pintxos bar.

M&M

10/10/12 

 

DAY 3 : SPAIN :RONCEVALLES to ZUBIRI - 21.9 kms - 6 hours

Distance walked so far : 803.2 kms

Weather : cold then fine - 25o

A new energy has been injected into our walking. There are many new people starting their walk - from every country imaginable...all excited at the prospect of discovering Spain and the mysteries of the Camino. There are people from 15 to 75 years of age - with small packs to large packs with every technology. It's very exciting and different from walking on the French side.

Today's route from Roncevalles.
We are on the route of Santiago de Compostela.
St James, the apostle, was decapitated in Jerusalem in 44 AD and
legend has it that his body was taken by boat to the end of the
Western World, where he was buried. In 812 a hermit saw
shining lights and miraculously found the tomb of the apostle,
in which today is Santiago (St James) de Compostela (field of stars).
This is now one of the main pilgrimage routes which include Rome
and Jerusalem.

 

 

Waking up in Roncevalles.
We shared a cubicle with Aditi and Cinzia.

 

Leaving the albergue at 8 - still dark

 

 

Gorgeous autumn colours

 

4 Irish friends on their annual holiday together

 

Our destination today was Zubiri.
This bridge (14th century) was used to cure rabid dogs.
Owners would bring their animals and twist them around the
bridge 3 times in the belief they would be cured.

 

Cooling tired feet.

 

Our albergue - 10 euros - 8 beds per room

 

Mark and Bill share stories after a big day.

 

 



A trip to the Farmacia and my cold symptoms are receding fast. We had a very happy meal at one of the other auberge (hostels) last night. A pilgrim meal (salad, soup, choice of pork or cod, lemon dessert) for 12 euros including red wine. Bill, Mark and I were sitting with some very lively Irish walkers - a couple from Galway - and had a very entertaining evening.

 

9/10/12

M&M 

 

DAY 2 : SPAIN : ORISSON to RONCESVALLES - 17.1 kms - 6 hours

Distance walked so far : 763.1 kms

Weather : warm wind as we set off at 8 am, sunny in the afternoon.



Our mission today : to climb from Auberge Orisson (750m)
to Col de Lepoeder (1450m over 10km) then drop from
there to Roncevalles (950m in 5 kms)

 

Everyone happy that the day was fine and mild.
(Weather conditions highly changeable)

 

Early morning down the Pyrenees valleys

 

Horses and sheep grazing

 

The border, crossing over to the Spanish province of Navarra.

 

One of the oldest beech tree forests left.
Steep decline.

 

Large new public albergue in Roncenvalles, one of the oldest
major centres on the route, solely in existence to look after
pilgrims. Fabulous facilities. 10 euros each for a bed.

 

Unlike the old albergue, where there were 110 beds
in one room (like an army hospital), they now
have 183 with cubicles of 4 beds. Large bathrooms,
washing facilities and kitchen (for those who like to cook!)
We will have a 9 euro - 3 course pilgrim menu at a
local restaurant.

 

We are sharing with Cinzia (Italy) and Adete (Spain)
our bedfellows from last night.
I have a cold so I'm praying that I won't disturb
anyone in such close quarters.

 

 

 

M&M

8/10/12



 

 

 

 

DAY 1 : SPAIN : ST JEAN PIED DE PORT to ORISSON - 8 kms - 2 hours

DAY 35 : ST JEAN PIED DE PORT to ORISSON - 8 kms - 2 hours

Distance walked so far : 746 kms

Weather : 15o - 22o - cloudy and fine.

The second part : St Jean to Saint Jacques (Santiago de Compostela)

 

Leaving St Jean through the pilgrim gate
as pilgrim's have done for centuries.

 

Heading towards the Pyrenees - half a mountain to
climb today

 

Beautiful morning as we climb...with my new lighter pack.

 

Stunning views

 

After 2 hours we arrived at Auberge Orisson.
1000m in 8 kms

 

Relaxing and enjoying the view on the Orisson terrace cafe



Evening meal provided.
A happy coincidence. One of the other walkers is
Bill Williams - a friend of  my brothers.



DAY 34 : FRANCE : OSABAT to ST JEAN PIED DE PORT - 21 kms - 6 hours

Distance walked so far : 738 kms

Weather : 18o as we set off at 7.45 am and 30o maximum

Today we finished the French section of the camino.
We've walked 736 kms.
We have loved every minute of our time in France.

 

After too many kisses from Monsieur this morning,
we left the gite just as the sun was rising.

 

Keen to finish - pelerins leave the gite.

 



Along the route there are symbols of the camino.
Here are pine cone pilgrims walking in traditional
gear.



 

Pristine Basque villages

 

A farmer herding his cattle on bicycle with
obligatory beret.

 

Lunch in village en route - traditional church,
Mairie (town hall) and the view of the Pyrenees.

 

St Jean is a 'bastide' town like so many in the Basque region.
It is a small border town on the river Nive, capital of the
Basque province of Basse Navarre.
It is the official beginning of the Camino de Santiago.

 

St Jean - a traditional Basque town.

 

Our gite, Ultreia.

 

The kitchen with an internal courtyard.

 

A double bedroom with balcony for us.

 

View out the window of the town

 

 

Wonderful pilgrim meal (13 euros each) at a local
restaurant with friends we've met along the way.
Job, Heiko and Brian.

 

After dinner drinks - a perfect night to end a wonderful
time in France.

 

 

M&M

6/10/12