JUNE 2015 : SPAIN : El Camino del Norte : Day 1 : San Sebastián to Zarautz

Distance walked so far : 23 kms

Distance to Santiago de Compostela : 786 kms

Day 1 : San Sebastián to Zarautz : 23 kms ( 8 hours with stops in Orio and lunch at a bar at the top of the hill before descending into Zarautz)

Maximum temperature : 32o

The terrain was undulating and quite steep a times. For the first stage out of San Sebastián, after the first steep climb, we walked on shady paths with views of the ocean. There were several sections of road with no shade which was testing for us, particularly for those feeling effects of the heat. 

There was a steady stream of walkers, which is encouraging, and we hope to get to know some along the way. We chatted to a woman from Montreal in Canada, who is walking with her niece and there were many young men and a few couples starting out on the route.

Zarautz was a very welcome sight and we've all enjoyed a swim in the surf with the thousands of holiday makers. The public albergue does not open until tomorrow, 1st July, so we are staying in a small modern hotel, Olatu, in the city centre, close to bars and restaurants, which we will take our weary bodies to for an early meal and then bed, so that we can start out fresh tomorrow about 6 to avoid another scorching day's heat. www.olatuhotela.com

General map indicating El Camino del Norte route.

The path and elevation for today. It goes from right to left as we are walking east to west.

                                 

    

         We are being guided by a book, which we ordered from the Confraternity of St James in London, which gives detailed directions, historical notes and suggestions for accommodation. We are also armed with an official credential which enables us to stay in albergue said, and is proof of our commitment to the walk, as it contains a stamp ( or sellos ) from each town we walk through.

We left at 6.15am following the signs along the promenade outside of the Hotel Niza.

                          Setting out at sunrise. Last views of Playa de la Concha

We followed other pelegrinos out of the town following the direction of yellow arrows, a symbol of all the Caminos.

We climbed up stone paths until we were on top of a ridge with wonderful views back of San Sebastián.

                                    Provisions left for thirsty walkers by local families

      

                                   Traditional Basque farmhouses along the coast.

        

                  Shady pathways

        

                Some road -walking by farms, vegetable gardens and vineyards.

       

By the time we reached Orio, on the River Orio, the heat was taking its tole, so we stopped for a drink by the river. They was a lot of activity with students on holidays enjoying play equipment, kayaking on the river etc.

        

           Our first view of Zarautz after a step ascent, light lunch at the top to recover and then down to      

           find our accommodation, just booked yesterday when we realised that the albergue would not   

           be open. We got the last 2 rooms at the Olate hotel.

         

            The seaside town of Zaraurtz. It is historically important for its shipbuilding industry, one 

             Important commission was for the explorer, Magellan's boat, The Vitoria.

           

   

     

        A cooling swim to end the day with the view back to the day's memorable trail and achievement.

      M&M

JUNE 29, 2015 : SPAIN: San Sebastián: DAY 2

Another beautiful day in downtown San Sebastián. 25o.

We set off at 8am for a traditional desayuno (breakfast) at a local cafe. Freshly- squeezed orange juice, pasty or fresh bread roll and café con leche - coffee with milk.

                                    

   

Mark was on a mission to find the post office to send a small bag of 4kgs on to the post office in Santiago to lighten his load. This cost 14 euros. Easy to do and common practice along all the Camino routes.

Then off on an excellent walking tour with Inigo as our guide.

      

Inigo gave us a brief history of the fortress town besieged by various forces from the 18th to 20th centuries, including horrific atrocities in the 1930s by Franco's army. But it has been rebuilt and restored to a popular tourist resort and market town, with a population of 200,000.

The Boulevarde, showcasing the beautifully-kept gardens throughout the city.

San Sebastian's coat of arms, including the arrows of the martyred Saint Sebastián, who was a soldier in the Roman emperor, Diocletian's army. He was killed for converting Romans to the Christian faith in the third century. Basques celebrate his saint's day in January. One of many festivals on the Basque calendar.

More public art. San Sebastián has been awarded the European City of the Year for 2016 for art and culture.

A memorial to the thousands who died at the hands of Franco. It is in the shape of the city's coastline.

We visited the local market with its local produce.

                                     

                                           Another special lunch at a recommended restaurant. 

          

                                                            Stunning afternoon.

          

                                                                Another swim.

           

    

           

                 Pinxtos for dinner. So many tapas bars to choose from and without the weekend crowds.

        

            Gelato or pastries for dessert?

     One of the characters along the waterfront. Julie summed him up as someone who loved the        product so he bought the company.

Meanwhile everyone was mesmerised by the spectacular sunset.

We have loved San Sebastián and it has provided a very auspicious start to our holiday. Tomorrow we head off early on our first day off walking to avoid the predicted heatwave.

M&M

  

JUNE 28, 2015 : SPAIN: San Sebastián

Our first day in San Sebastián or Donostia, as it is called in the local Basque language. We are staying on the beach front in a small hotel, Hotel Niza. San Sebastián is a very attractive and from all appearances, a very prosperous town, defined by its beautiful sandy beaches and bay bordered by gracious nineteenth century buildings. It was the centre of the struggle between the English and French during the Napoleonic Wars, when Napoleon conquered the city and the Duke of Wellington proceeded to besiege it for two and a half months and loot and destroy it. Several of the churches have been restored but originally dated back to the 12th century. More background to this friendly place tomorrow on a free walking tour.

First view of San Sebastián from our hotel window.

Just outside the hotel La Concha beach. Safe swimming, 22o water temperature, soft clean sand. Families all out relaxing together.

Excitement along the beach front as hundreds of enthusiastic triathletes gather for competition. A few international contestants, including Australians, mentioned over the loud speaker.

We joined many tourists and locals walking along the extensive promenade at the glorious views of the bay.

Modern and traditional sculptures throughout the city. Our favourite was Don Quixote and Sancho. I've often felt like Sancho, the loyal side-kick, on our journeys.

Just a few streets from the shore there was a stunning plaza lined by immaculate apartments. This was originally the local bull- fighting ring and the numbered apartments were the private spectator boxes. Note the old man in his traditional Basque beret. 

                                        

We wandered through busy alleyways and even spied some other pelegrinos already walking the Del Norte route.

      

In one of the courtyards, near the local Pelota court - Basque handball - local children were practising Basque traditional dances, which they perform regularly during the summer holidays and festivals.

                                    

Bob and Julie, our travelling companions, have researched the best local cuisine and they booked at the Aita Mari restaurant for lunch.

                                    

                    

            

                                        

         

         

       

                                        

       

   

          

After a swim and a siesta we joined the throngs tasting the delights of the pinxtos or tapas bars. Bit of a bun fight to squeeze in and make your selections and then find a space to eat it but the atmosphere was so convivial. Babies to the elderly all out enjoying an evening stroll, meals or a drink - not a mobile phone in sight - people actually talking to each other! 

 The Spanish certainly know how to have a good time - and everyone is invited!

M&M

  

JUNE 2015 - SEPTEMBER 2015 : SPAIN : another walking adventure!

A very eventful week with our 40th wedding anniversary and my retirement and to celebrate we have a three month European walking program planned. We have experienced several of the French and Spanish pilgrim routes to Santiago de Compostela, and the wonderful Via Francigena from Geneva to Rome, but this year we have decided to tackle Camino Del Norte, from San Sebastián along the northern coast of Spain to Santiago. 800+ kms in 35 days along reportedly stunningly beautiful but rugged terrain. We are armed with information from other blogs and friends who completed the route last October.

The Camino Del Norte is the light green route along the northern coast line.

The second walk we are planning to do is The European Peace Walk in August. It was inaugurated last year, on the centenary of the outbreak of WW1, to promote peace through the shared pleasure of  walking 600 kms over 24 days from the outskirts of Vienna to Trieste. 20 (self-guided) walkers set off on the route daily for 3 weeks with the directions and  accommodation pre-booked by an enthusiastic band of  volunteers.

The European Peace Walk

Meanwhile we are savouring the delights of San Sebastián, as we acclimatise, recover from jet lag and prepare ourselves for some strenuous exercise and the delights of Northern Spain.

M&M